Thursday, October 31, 2013

Some guys....

Had to keep myself from slapping a young man on the metro today, though he did get several pointed "Excusez-moi"s. I am very frustrated with the world this week. I am going to go take a rose water bath and bask in the Parisian luxury that I have. I'll post pictures tomorrow after the class trip to the Louvre!
Love you, Mom

Monday, October 28, 2013

Just stuff

I finally went to church here in Paris yesterday and it was great. I led the music in RS and made a few new friends, hopefully. I meant to go to FHE tonight but time got away from me. Church is mixed, English and French, but one of the 7 missionaries in the ward will translate into whatever is not being spoken, into French over the main microphone, or into English over headsets. I'm looking forward to going back next week. Chartres this weekend was great fun, I really do love visiting the small cities; the weather was gorgeous and there was good food and sights to been enjoyed.

Friday, October 25, 2013

Things that are French

Or maybe they are Parisian...who knows?

1. Saying 'bon appétit!'
It sounds like the kind of thing everyone assumes French people say all the time but in reality no one does, right? Wrong. While you don't talk to people in the streets or the metro and you never smile at a a stranger, you do say 'bon appétit' anytime you are with someone who is eating. You all sit down for dinner? Say it to those at your table. You pass someone sitting at a streetside cafe table? Better say to them, too! Today, walking home, I was stuffing my face with a one euro sandwich and a random guy in the cross walk said "bon ap" to me, and it caught me a bit off guard, but hey, lesson learned.

2. The metro. This is so Parisian, that they have a phrase that basically means "The daily grind"- "Metro-boulot-dodo" (commute, work, sleep). Metro customs here are something you learn fast, and there are a lot of them! If the car is full, anyone in a fold down seat must fold it and stand. You don't ever buy tickets from the street scammers, you ignore the people playing awesome music in the station or the car, you don't make eye contact and you don't smile at one another. Of course the standard transit manners apply too, such as giving up your seat for elderly, disabled, or new mothers, not talking loudly on the phone (though many seem to be totally fine with that one), and standing if you are only going a few stops. The metro is always blazing hot inside, because it is heated, and you're in a small space with a few hundred other commuters. Some trains carry up to 1,000 people, and I'm sure we've squished more in that than. But real Parisians don't sweat, ever, even if they are wearing all black head to toe. I really hate that haha. One of the fun things about taking the metro during a busy hour is that there is ALWAYS room for another person or two, so when someone comes running at the closing doors, slides their toe into the crowd and body slams the wall of people, we simply absorb them and make sure their belongings aren't caught in the doors. It gets crazy sometimes, but I kind of like it, it's like a giant hug from the city of Paris. <-creeper status? oh yeah!

3. The classic Parisian attitude. "Non, c'est impossible!" I was warned about getting the cold shoulder in Paris, from people who simply insist that whatever you are asking for cannot be done. I got it for the first time today, though I have witnessed it several times since being here. Today, I went to the post office to pick up a package from my lovely mother. The lady at the counter was kindly helping about 10 people all at once, loaning tape and suggesting inexpensive alternatives etc, she got to me, got everything ready and then told me I needed my passport to pick it up. She said she would hold it and I could come back. Awesome! (wait for it, the attitude is coming). So I went back about an hour later with my passport. I greeted the lady behind the counter, a different one this time, showed her my form and told her I was here to pick up a package please, in pretty dang good French (it was simple, I'm not going to pretend I sound like a local haha). She pointed to the date on my form (Where it says to pick it up today) and told me it was impossible. I told her I had just been there and just needed to bring back my passport and she said she didn't understand, and it was horrible, but I should come back tomorrow. I tried again but she cut me off with 'a demain!' (see you tomorrow). Ok...so I left. I walked back in twenty minutes later and talked to a NEW lady, I greeted her and told her I didn't understand my form (it could have been my misreading, I admit that). She told me it was simple, and with a smile got my package ready, asked for my id, and sent me on my way, all with Madame Snotty Pants hovering over her shoulder saying things like "oh yes, do that, type this here, oh have a good day!". mmmhmm. When they tell you to be persistent and humble in your transactions here, they really mean it, and apologizing for your poor french with a smile will get you MILES.

4. Cheap wine, expensive chocolate.
Chocolate here is a lot harder to come by than in America. I mean, everyone has chocolate, but its going to be 2 euros usually, to start! Wine, on the other hand, can be found for little over one euro, all over the city, in 87 varieties, and it isn't even horrible, apparently. Lame sauce. Also, they believe that peanut butter is why America has an obesity problem, alors, no Reese's. : / (does that name look odd to anyone else? I swear I had no idea that's how it was spelled, I had to google it).

5. For me, sore feet. So much city to explore!

6. Not French, but.... I bought a pair of jean exactly one month ago. I washed them on day one. Wore them, washed them, worse them, washed them (This time, they dyed a shirt blue, cool), etc. To this day, after probably 5 washings, they still leave my legs blue, EVERY SINGLE DAY. What is this??

7. Blah blah blah, honestly I'm exhausted and have no idea what I'm writing, I hope this made some sense...I'm posting it anyway, I'll reread and revise later if needed...night!

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Visiting the Catacombes

Today we went 42 meters below street level to visit the Catacombes of Paris. If you want to know the real history, I recommended you wikipedia that, but I'll give you the RD version. Much of the old buildings of the city (like the famous Notre Dame) were built out of limestone quarried directly beneath the city. Because of that, at one point, Paris was at risk of sinking into the pits! It has now been reinforced, but you now have to have a special permit to build over the quarry areas.
     The tunnels and rooms span most of the city, and the part we visited is only a fraction of the catacombes, which is only 1/800th of the space under Paris! wow!! The section we visit is interesting because in the 1700's, the cemeteries in the city were becoming a health and space concern. Their solution? Bury the 6 million bodies in the catacombes!

The 'piles' you see on top of the wall is actually just the edge of what is a fifty meters deep stack of bodies, with the wall at front.

They stacked femurs and skulls to make "walls" and behind the walls they stacked the other remains.
Look, a heart! How... romantic?



The walls are decorated and designed, and the tunnels are full of poetry and sayings about Death. There are crosses everywhere and lots of other fairly creepy things.
How would you like that job? Arrange these skulls into a cool design, k?

My rough translation: Think in the morning that you may not exist this evening, and think in the evening that you may not be here in the morning.

MRT: Happy is he whose hour of death is always before him, who is ready to face death every day. 

I don't remember what this one said...but I liked it, alot! 

Who took that one? Um....creepy, no thanks.

The worst part? There are obviously skulls missing from some sections--who wants to take that home?! At the end of our short tour, the check your bags, to make sure you didn't find a souvenir...right.

This guy. Still has teeth. Um.....

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Paris is Beautiful!

Good Sunday morning, everyone :)
     I hope your sunday has been less confusing than mine! Last week was supposed to be my first week going to church in Paris, but I thought there wasn't any church because it was closed when I went. This morning I left early and was eager and nervous to finally be in a ward again! When I got the the building...I realized that what I had previously thought was the church was actually just the front of the institute building, which is why it was closed last sunday, and the chapel was through some doors, down an alley, and behind a parking lot. Can you blame me for being confused? It gets better though-- there were signs on the door saying there was stake conference today at Palais des Congress in Versailles. Awesome. Versailles, again.
     I checked my watch and saw I had 45 minutes before it started, and Versailles was only 30 minutes out by train, so I might make it. I caught a metro, and another, and another, on a wild goose chase to find conference. The first train station lady told me there was no such thing as Palais des Congress in Versailles, and I should go to Pont du Versailles in Paris. So I went there, that lady told me I should go to Porte Maillot. On my way to Port Maillot, I got off the metro and checked at another train station-I KNEW conference was in Versailles, not Paris. So I walked up to the ticket window and asked her which train to Versailles would get me closest to Palais des Congress....annnd she told me it was complicated, and I said ok, and she said "today?", I said yes...she told me it was impossible, the train I needed didn't run on sundays. Awesome.
     So, after more than an hour and a half metro riding (That is a lot, most of my trips are 15 minutes or less) I decided I needed a break.
Click to zoom and see my crazy trip. Each hash mark is where I switched trains, and separate trips or purposes (ie church, train, etc) are in different colors, Starting with the black hash at Bonne Nouvelle. 

     I walked along the Seine in a very slight sprinkle of rain. There were lots of joggers out and very few tourists. I found a little bridge with some dry seats beneath, and they were playing jazz music out of speakers at the bridge. It was a gorgeous morning and a beautiful place to sit, so I took out my journal and my scriptures and enjoyed it for a while. In the end, I am really bummed I missed conference and church altogether, but I am so glad I ended up where I did, because I probably would never have been able to enjoy the Seine so peacefully, and it was a much needed break from the world.
     I am home now and about to enjoy some ravioli with cheese! I hope you have a good sunday, enjoy church for me! ;)

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Bad Luck Boots

Dear Mom,
I'm sorry I don't update on here as much as you'd like me to. I promise to write three posts this week, so be on the lookout!
Love,
Janice

     Ok everyone, how has your week been? Good, great, awful, so-so? Mine has been... comme ci comme ca (a little bit of both). It god off to a very slow start, ie. a four day weekend of which I spent about...72 hours in bed. It was just a lazy weekend I didn't have anything to do and no reason to leave, and Catherine was gone so there was no one to hold me accountable for my laziness. It was not fun. Class on Wednesday also started poorly with a migraine that had me missing my first class, luckily, it was the best behaved migraine on the planet earth and after an extra 4 hour nap that morning, I was ok to finish my day.

     On thursday we went to Versailles. First of all, I love travelling my train. The daily metro is ok, but I love getting out of the city, even if its only an hour or so. I am honestly getting pretty annoyed of being in my group all the time, and I am less and less impressed with opulence the more I see it.
Oh yeah, giant chateau with lots of rooms and gold and old tapestries and stuff huh? I'll check it out online...
Alors, the trip to Versailles was not as magnificent for me as it is for some. Yes, I went to the hall of mirrors and through the Princesses apartments and the princes apartments and the kings and the queens and the ballrooms...but it just felt fake to me. Touristy, and overcrowded, and not authentic, even though I am told it is very authentic. There was also a long long art gallery in what used to be the princes apartments full of beautiful paintings. What impresses me most about works like this is the size, its incredible to me that an artist can paint on canvases bigger than my room; I think I would get bored with a project before I got it done. There was also a portrait of George Washington and some French leaders (whose names I'm sure I'm supposed to know by now) during the revolutionary war, and my audio guide had some great little spiel about how much the French helped America become established and it ended with "France has remained the friend of America ever since, because of the French devotion to liberty" Mhmm...right.

    The gardens at Versailles, those are amazing! I LOVE French gardens. I like the lines and the symmetry and how everything always feels like it goes on forever. These do go on forever though, we toured just a teeny portion and it took us over two hours! We spent a lot of time inside the domain of Marie Antoinette, whose garden was styled and created after an English garden, which was supposed to be the embodiment of the sublime. That was fun to see because we are studying the sublime in my theory course right now. I didn't take many pictures of the chateau itself, but I did take a few of the grounds and the adorable animals inside Antoinette's domain.  I decided that if I ever have a large sum at my disposal to do what I please, I would love to own land. Enough land in the right place that I have my own horizon. That is the sort of wealthy I would enjoy :)

If I was ever to see this building back in the day, this would be my view, that of a commoner. This is part of the front courtyard. Looks big, eh? Google this place, it's HUGE!

See that water stretching out toward the horizon? Yeah, the property continues after that :)

This is French decorating, pretty shnazzy, huh?

Louis XIV knew what he was doing! If I had the money of France, I'd make my own lake, too!

The chateau from the right side of the gardens, a cottage built for Marie Antoinette's play village with pigeons on top, a peacock who would not spread his feathers despite my attempts at flirting, Geese? The blood descendent of her favorite pig, a cute cute goat (that was for you, Mom!), Chickens! (Also for you, Mom), more goats and some of the birdies playing together.


     Now...those boots. I broke the heel off the right boot in Dublin, when I very first got there, as you might recall. It's been slippery to walk on and I've almost fallen multiple times, makes me look very graceful, like the Parisians, non?  Well...tonight, I was crossing the street and I could feel my right foot slipping beneath me. My left foot was already in the air and I knew I wasn't going to be able to catch myself. In slow motion, just like in the movies, I fell face first onto the street, in the exact middle of an intersection (I was crossing diagonally and I was the only pedestrian walking, though there was plenty of cars watching...). My right leg went out like I was going in for a sweet side lunge, my left knee skidded across the ground, my hands barely catching myself to keep my brand new cream sweater clean (it's important, ok?!). So I have small scrapes on my hands and I skinned my knee through my leggings. Annnnd...I broke my other boot--ripped the sole off the first two inches of the shoe. I'm glad I only paid what I did, but I can't believe I paid what I did, I've owned these boots less than a month. Lame sauce.

So there you go, there was my week. I've also been working a lot on what I want to do when I get back, as I have to keep reminding myself that this is temporary and all too soon I'll be trudging across Seattle for class again. I think I have a game plan worked out, and that makes me happy. I'm pretty sure I don't want to go straight into grad school, and so that leaves me options wide open again. What am I going to do with my life?

For now, the answer to that is eat cookies and watch movies and pout over my poor knee and the death of my boots :c
These are my favorite cookies here. They run about 45-65 cents a box and they are so yummy! Taste just like thumbprint cookies. 

Thursday, October 10, 2013

Royalty and Other Things

First-a disclaimer. I'm sorry if my sentences don't make much sense, or they are spelled wrong or something. I am starting to really pick up the language and one of the side effects is that all English looks weird and wrong to me haha.

     Today we took a trip to Fontainebleau, which was the summer/weekend home of the throne for basically ages. It's now, of course, a source of tourism and for good reason. It's a gorgeous property, lavishly decorated and just gushing with history. Wanna be within 10 feet of French royalty? Go to Fontainebleau. And let me tell you, it was opulent. The French are VERY good at luxury, Mikkel described this as "the reason they needed a revolution". We took a self guided audio tour, and it was fun and I took lots of pictures, which are up on facebook right now. I'm bummed I didn't have time to visit the gardens, but I have an extra train ticket and I am going back this weekend by myself :) I am so excited!

     But do you want to know what was BETTER than the royal palace itself? Better than standing next to the bed queens slept in, walking through their bathroom, or standing in the room a king was born? The hike we took afterwards. Mikkel offered to take us on a hike, and about 5 of us accepted that offer. We sent the others off on the train and we disappeared up a narrow trail in the bushes and trees next to the train station.

     We hiked (ok, walked...the trail was mild. Narrow in places, steep in places, but we still looked good at the end so...you be the judge) for what felt like ages. It was gorgeous; trees of every variety and color all over, but with lots of space between them, creating a sort of cool level beneath their branches, with soft light filtering in through the leaves. I picked up a few for my journal :) I could have been anywhere in the world, it was so secluded. It was such a lovely change of pace from the cramped city, and the air was clear and felt so good to breathe and walk through. It sprinkled most of the time, and honestly, I loved that too. I love rain, and French rain is even better ;)
     They have these adorable old "fountains" in the ground, a miniature well, basically, to collect water from the minimal rain for the animals, because the ground is quite sandy there. There are lots of VERY large boulders with holes in them large enough for my face. I don't remember geology that well, but I'm pretty sure they were igneous. After walking THROUGH one of the rocks, and under a few low trees, we came upon this wonderful stone tower. Looking a lot like a Mayan temple, with large stone steps up one side, we all joked it was where he brought us for the blood sacrifice. In actuality, it was built to be a vantage point, and it was perfect. The views were amazing, and worth every single step, and my favorite thing in France so far.

     I didn't take many pictures on this hike, and they definitely don't do the view justice, but now you'll just have to come see it for yourself!






PS, if I had my way, I would live in Fontainebleau and commute to school in Paris :) Maybe someday!

Saturday, October 5, 2013

One Week in Paris

A request for an update reminded me that I haven't told you much about Paris at all!
So, basics? I live with a girl named Tori in the 7th floor of an old apartment building, with our hostess, Catherine. She is very kind and patient with us, correcting our French and offering alternative ways to say things. Sometimes her daughter, Clara, stops by, and Catherine is in a chamber music group which practices in the living room, le salon, and that is lovely, for me. I'm not sure Tori appreciates it, but I do! She sets out breakfast things for us; brioche, which is a sweet bread we eat toasted (or not) with butter and jam, yogurt, and OJ, coffee. She also makes us dinner every night. The meals are usually simple, but have been delicious!!

I love the food here! It is divine, for sure! Lots of cheese and milk and cream, fruit, bread, all the wonderful things haha. I haven't had a crêpe or crémé brûlée yet,  but I did have a few macarons and they are delicious!!!!

We have class twice a week for about 7 hours a day. The days are long, and even though I love the classes, I am usually very tired by the end. In our french conversation class, we are given many weekly assignments of places to visit and things to do, and we write, talk, or present about them in class. After that is a cinematic look at Paris, which means we are watching 20 movies about Paris this quarter haha. So far, I love watching the movies and the in class discussions are engaging as well. We usually have 3-5 essays a week to read in that class, which keeps us busy. The last class of the day is critical theory. I sort of dread that it is last, because he is definitely a dry lecturer, but the subject matter is fascinating and I find that I enjoy it anyway, long as it is. So far we have discussed Plato's Ion, books 2,3,10 of Republic, and are moving on to a bit of Aristotle.

We take the metro everywhere, and even though it is super hot and usually smells bad, I don't mind it a bit. There are lots of ways to get around the city, and they reccommended we take the bus to see more of the city, but so far I haven't had the time haha I am seemingly always runnning late. I am already getting sick though, despite the fact that one of the first things I bought in Paris was vitamin C haha. The metro stop closest to us, though, is not too safe at night, or by yourself, and I've been told my blonde hair makes the situation worse, so we have to walk to other stops or transfer. It's not that bad, because we have about 7 stops within a 10 minute walk, which is very conveniant.

I've learned it can get very expensive to buy lunch every day, and I've usually been buying cheap grocery store sandwiches, so I try to keep that to a minimum, but it's true that things are much more expensive here. Monoprix is the store we use most often for 'stuff', it's sort of like a Target? But like I said, things are expensive. A three pack of socks in 9.90euro, and I'm not talking nice socks, I'm talking plain white boring short socks. Thats about 5 dollars a pair! wow! This week is a sale week in Paris though, so I am trying to buy things on sale now, anticipating my needs for the winter. I also learned I have to stop converting into dollars, because everything looks outrageous, (though some of it is-4.50 for my Coke at lunch today, even in dollars thats a rip off).

Tonight is la nuit blanche, which is a national culture festival. Museums open their doors for free after 8pm and stay open late, street artists take over, there is art installations everywhere and muscians, djs, and film is involved as well. I'm definitely going out, so I'll make sure to share any fun stories from tonight!

The strangest thing I've found since being here, is that even though it is beautiful, strange, and I don't know the language or the city, the feeling of being a tourist wore off about one day after being here. This feels like my home. My strange home whose customs or language I don't understand, but my home. I don't know how or why, but it does help me feel less lonely, being on a different continent from all of you!

I'll post some pictures on facebook from a few class outings, I hope you enjoy them!

PS, I am sorry if there are any typo's, I tried to proofread this, but my spell check is set to French, and so EVERYTHING is underlined haha